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CATHEDRAL MOUNTAIN GUIDES
Eugene Kwan on Power Play (NEI 4+), Chapel Pond, Adirondacks, NY.
Dana Drummond on Slab Happy Pinnacle (5.10), Yosemite Valley, Califormia.
Lone climber at around 17,000' on Denali's West Buttress.
Bayard Russell on the first ascent of The Painted Wall Icicle, M9 NEI 5+.
Dana Drummond acclimitizing at 15,000' on Denali's West Rib.
About
CATHEDRAL MOUNTAIN GUIDES is a New Hampshire-based guide service run by American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) certified guide Bayard Russell, Jr.
A highly experienced climber, Bayard is also a director of the Mountain Rescue Service (MRS), and an MRS Team leader. He has summited both Alaska's Denali (Mt McKinley) and Mt. Hunter, completed multiple ascents of Yosemite Valley's El Capitan, and established new routes throughout the northeast; ranging from multipitch 5.12d to M10 sport mixed and multipitch M9 trad. At home on both rock and ice, Bayard is well-equipped to help you further your goals, whether you want to rock climb for the first time, try your hand at mountaineering, or swing tools at steep ice and scratch around on mixed terrain.
Links to online articles:
Climbing.com - John Henry, M10
Climbing.com - The Painted Wall Icicle, M9 NEI 5+
Alpinist.com - The Painted Wall Icicle, M9 NEI 5+; Strippers, M8+ NEI4+
Alpinist.com - The Bossman, M9
Cathedralstyle.com - Bayard's blog, write-ups, photos and links.
Jim Surette photo.
Bayard on the first ascent of Hardscrabble Road, 5.12c, western Maine.
ROCK
The Mount Washington Valley, and the White Mountains of New Hampshire, are inarguably home to some of the best rock climbing in the country. The granite is spectacular. There is terrian here for the beginner on their first day out, and the expert alike.
We offer a fully flexible range of guided days, most determined in a one-on-one conversation about past experience and goals. The first job of a guide is to pick the best terrain for that person, a skill developed through years of experience, but we are also happy to be a rope gun for a dream climb. New Hampshire's mountains are a great training ground and an end in themselves.
SOME IDEAS
Intro to Rock
Spend the morning learning the basics on flat ground; tying in, maintaining personal safety, securing the rope for your partner, removing rock protection and the fundamentals of movement on rock. Spend the afternoon climbing and practicing those skills. North Conway's Cathedral Ledge is the perfect place, conveniently offering an outdoor "classroom" setting and easily accessable, excellent, beginner terrrain.
Guiding
Just getting out on the cliff and covering terrain is what its all about. A busy schedule, difficulty finding patners, and all of life's other complications make accomplishing your climbing goals difficult. Streamline a day out with Cathedral Mountain Guides and spend more time climbing.
Rock Leader Courses
Getting out on the sharp end is a whole different experience. We will discuss both the techniques and the art. For those with little exposure to leading, a three day course would might be required, while a supplemental day out could round out the skills of a mentored intermediate. Contact me to design a personalized program.
Self Resuce
How do you lower or haul an unresponsive partner, pass a knot or pick off an injured second? Learn the skills you hope to never use and discuss how avoid ugly situations.
Classic Introductory and Intermediate Routes
Upper Refuse, Cathedral Ledge, 5.5
Standard Route, Whitehorse Ledge, 5.5
Thin Air, Cathedral Ledge, 5.6
Funhouse, Cathedral Ledge, 5.7
Sliding Board, Whitehorse Ledge, 5.7
Classic Intermediate and Advanced Routes
Whitney Gilman Ridge, Cannon Cliff, 5.7
Endeavor, Whites Ledge, 5.7
Inferno, Whitehorse Ledge, 5.8
Still in Saigon, Cathedral Ledge, 5.8
Recompense, Cathedral Ledge, 5.9
Hotter Than Hell, Whitehorse Ledge, 5.9
Vertigo, Cannon Cliff, 5.9
Diedre, Cathedral Ledge, 5.10
VMC Direct Direct, Cannon Cliff, 5.10
ICE
When something is in your own backyard you tend to take it for granted, but the ice climbing in the Northeast is easily some of the best in the country. Right here in the White Mountains we have an incredible variety of frozen terrain, at varying altitudes and aspects, leaving something always in good shape.
Intro To Ice
Ice climbing is tool use, so it can be less intuitive than rock climbing. Luckily, proper technique can be easily learned; a few hours with an expert could literally save you years of trial and error. Get a good foundation in a highly imformative day, and you'll be ready for some of the New Hampshire classics.
The techniques required to climb ice are fairly simple, so a little experience can go a long way. It's the leading that is the hard part. Let someone else do the work and get pitches in left and right, accompanied by a little coaching to keep you improving. From Crawford Notch's Shoestring Gully and Standard Route to Cathedral Ledge's world famous Repentence and Remission, whatever your goal Cathedral Mountain Guides can take you there.
Ice leader Courses
There is definitely some black magic involved in leading ice, especially steep ice. More than rock climbing, leading ice involves serious commitment. Improve your climbing technique, winter climbing's single best defense against injury, and learn the ropes. This course can open up a whole new realm of possibilities.
Advanced Ice
There is a big leap from WI 4 to WI 5, spend a day refining your skills, learn more about efficiency and have some questions answered by an expert. Like many poeple, a busy schedule can keep you away from the mountains, making that breakthrough hard to acheive. A day devoted specifically to improving your skills can make it happen.
Classic Routes
Shoestring Gully, Mount Webster, NEI 2+
Hitchcock Gully, Mount Willard, NEI 3
Standard Route, Frankenstein, NEI 3+
Chia, Frankenstein, NEI 3+
Smear, Frankenstein, NEI 4
Dracula, Frankenstein, NEI 4
The Black Dike, Cannon Cliff, NEI 4+
Repentence, Cathedral Ledge, NEI 5
Remission, Cathedral Ledge, NEI 5+
Omega, Cannon Cliff, NEI 5+
and many others...
Mt Washington Ascents
The highest summit in the northeast can be a beautiful hike on a warm, early spring day, or a heinous struggle against the wind and blowing snow. Either way, the weather or the surroundings will impress you. A winter ascent of Agiocochook is a must do for any hiker or mountaineer, and a good first step for those looking at Mt. Ranier or even North America's highest peak, Denali.
An ascent of Mt Washington done in the context of a two or three day mountaineering course is a superb way to get comfortable in alpine terrain. Contact me for more information.
The "Lobster Claw" on a beautiful day, one of Tuckerman Ravines easy snow climbs.
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Checkout
MAP MEETING AT THE FRONTSIDE GRIND (MARKED "NORTH CONWAY")
RATES
DAY
One Person: $250
Two People: $175/person
Three People: $150/person
Bigger Groups: contact us
OVERNIGHTS
One Person: $350
Two People: $225/person
Three People: $200/person
PRESIDENTIAL TRAVERSE
One Person: $950
Two People: $700/person
Three People: $550/person
TRIPS
Contact me
Contact Info
c/o Bayard Russell Jr.
6 Ash Lane
Madison, NH 03849
tel:
603 986 5614
email:
bayardrusselljr_gmail.com
CATHEDRAL STYLE
The New Hampshire climbing perspective. Write-ups, photos and links.
cathedralstyle.com
All Rights Reserved (c) Cathedral Mountain Guides
